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 In a light-filled, open-plan living room, sisters Reem and Natalya Kanj bounce between client meetings on Zoom and a discussion about launching a lab-grown diamond jewellery line, a sequel to a vegan ice-cream range they released last year. They are British-Lebanese, raised in London, based in Dubai, and former fashion bloggers who founded the influencer management agency Ego & East in 2016. The all-white furnishings resemble an Instagram image brought to life.

Ego & East represent influencers including Karen Wazen, who posts glamorous images of her family life in Dubai, and “the Triplets”, sisters who share artsy shots of themselves with matching black bobbed hair and detached expressions. As they set up another Zoom call, Natalya talks to a client about their Instagram profile. “No, don’t go live with anything – we need to send it for pre-approval and finalise the caption… They want it to go live Tuesday,” she says, showing her sister an image on her phone. “What should we caption it, babe?” she asks. “I don’t know, babe – what did you think when you saved it?” Reem replies. “I thought… so pretty,” Natalya says vaguely. They keep thinking. Never Underestimate an Old Man Who Believes in Jesus Shirt

The requirement for influencers to obtain an expensive individual licence has increased agencies’ power. It sits among a web of rules governing online content, including the cybercrime law, which bans using technology “for activities which are inconsistent with public morals and good conduct”; breaches can involve jail time for defamatory comments. In 2019, a British woman was detained under this law and faced two years in prison for calling her ex-husband’s new wife “a horse” in a Facebook comment three years before she returned to Dubai to attend his funeral. Facebook has also admitted blocking content following government demands, and telecoms agencies routinely deny access to websites at the state’s request, including news outlets, sites giving information on political detainees and those discussing LGBT issues. Internet fame is no shield: trans YouTuber Gigi Gorgeous says she was detained at Dubai airport in 2016 and prevented from entering the country.

The result is a torrent of positivity, an online world where glamour and achievement are the only acceptable forms of communication. Positivity is what Ego & East say they’re all about. After a discussion about the mark-up on gold and lab-grown-diamond body chains that will retail for over £700 (“I don’t want them to be super accessible, I want them to be good,” Natalya says), the pair Zoom with a girl in Paris they want to hire. “I love your hustle,” Reem tells her. The unpaid intern’s job will be to increase the company’s social media posts, focusing on inspirational quotes, with much thought given to font and background: these are their most popular content. “Manifest, but also do the work,” reads one, in all caps on white.

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